Emilia Wickstead Pre-Fall 2023
For Pre-Fall 2023, Emilia Wickstead takes inspiration from the work and cultural legacy of photographer Louise Dahl-Wolfe. In her two decades spent working for Harper’s Bazaar (1936-1958), Dahl-Wolfe collaborated with fashion editor Diana Vreeland to revolutionize the pages of the magazine, introducing an often dramatically pared down, relaxed vision of modern femininity into post-war America.
Her work melded the quixotic fantasy of high fashion and a life filled with travel and leisure with her own grounded values of independence, ambition and practicality. Preferring to shoot her subjects in natural light, outdoors and on location, Dahl-Wolfe cultivated an image of femininity that was as much about the essence of the woman and her lifestyle, as it was about the clothes. Her commitment to preserving the personal style and effortless beauty of her subjects paved the way for future photographers including Richard Avedon and
Peter Lindbergh.
The collection pays tribute to Dahl-Wolfe’s unique style of elevated naturalism and her pioneering use of colour and composition to add narrative delight to the women she photographed.
Notions of ready-to-wear and swimwear become intertwined. Crisp California cotton sundresses and shirting, striking in their simplicity, suggest carefree modernity. Utilitarian zip details and short-sleeved polo knits reflect youthful, yet sophisticated athleticism. Wide legged trousers worn with ease, and light kaftan layers, draped nonchalantly, suggest relaxed sensuality through a female lens. Leisure time and the everyday converge to impart a new, fresh elegance which challenges convention.
Prints, like joyful/nostalgic souvenirs, are inspired by exotic scenery and holidays. Classic, nautical stripes on sky-blue poplin suggest Riviera chic; The vibrant colours of the Italian coastline are brought to life in bougainvillea pink and lemon florals; Checkerboards and gilded wallpaper-like prints recall tiles and ornate architecture.
Arguably the first female fashion photographer to document the ‘vacation’ wardrobe, travel was essential to Dahl-Wolfe’s work in portraying women whose wardrobes served to complement their active lifestyle. Understated tailoring in ivory bouclé wool is designed for polished comfort whilst on the move. Traditional suiting becomes a uniform for covert style, for women who live, work and travel in harmony with their clothing, and for whom fashion acts as a conduit to a more vivid existence.
